Horsefeathers - MEN IN SKIRTS: THE ENCROACHMENT OF THE ANDROGYNES SPREADS

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January 28, 2004

MEN IN SKIRTS: THE ENCROACHMENT OF THE ANDROGYNES SPREADS

Horsefeathers hitched its trousers to a pair of suspenders and tightened its belt in the bargain before venturing out to the exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art—America’s most prestigious art museum—entitled “Bravehearts: Men in Skirts.” The exhibit, which continues through February, is advertised by a poster outside the museum showing a tall black man surely with America’s most prestigious upper body (the kind that gay body-building men would like to have and to hold) covered from the waist down with a floor length luxurious skirt of many glorious colors. A truly eye-stopping figure of dissonance and androgyny. (Click here.)

As one enters the exhibit, in the Costume Institute of the museum, one can see instantly that the exhibit is not there to serve educational aims but to promote an ideological agenda—bisexuality and androgyny. The sponsor of the exhibit is Jean Paul Gaultier, a gay French couturier. His statement appears forthrightly in the exhibition’s catalog: “Now the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a liberal and open-minded perspective dedicates their exhibition to a theme I feel very strongly about: ‘Men in Skirts.’ The skirt for a man is emblematic of the Jean Paul Gaultier wardrobe….In my mind the prestige of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, whose public is wide and diverse, will help the skirt to become a unisex item of clothing with cultural and historical realities once again. As a result of this exhibition, our western society will perhaps accept that men wear skirts, just as forty years ago it was accepted that women would wear trousers."

One does not have to read its annual report to understand the mission of the Met. Strolling around anywhere in its vast well-lit halls for fifteen or twenty minutes will show you that the museum exists to collect, conserve, and exhibit the best examples from traditions of art of a large variety of cultures. And it makes these works available for viewing for the pleasure and education of its constituents.

The hallmark of the Metropolitan Museum for more than a century has been its devotion to artistic tradition. Its art is not at the cutting edge of culture, it is not new, or modern, ground-breaking, cutting edge, or avant-garde. It is not the Whitney, or the Guggenheim, or the Modern—it’s the Met.

How to account for the anomalous exhibit at the Costume Institute? How to account for the fact that the exhibit is not backward looking—at the history of fashion—but forward looking—changing future tastes to make certain shocking styles more acceptable.

It’s as though the curatorial grownups had gone off on a holiday, and the curatorial teenagers had taken over the basement to act out some delinquent culture-trash fantasy.

Jean Paul Gaultier, the sponsor of the exhibit, is not your run-of-the-mill couturier. He has been one France’s most sensational and extreme fashion icons for many years. (To see a sample of his work click here.) A gay enfant terrible who rejoices in his transgressions, he often incorporates into his collections elements of gay style that he observes at gay clubs in London and Paris.

Gaultier, an only child who came from a middle class suburban family, was greatly influenced by his grandmother, with whom he lived much of the time. She, not one of your run-of-the-mill grandmeres, was a hypnotist and practitioner of alternative healing who encouraged Jean Paul to pursue the pastimes of sketching and costume-making.

While Gaultier had no formal fashion training, he was, beside having a naughty wit, a showman, and found his own style when he began adapting London's youth subcultures to his own fashion world.

According to GLBTQ (an encyclopedia of gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender, and queer culture) “His fusion of classic fashion with unconventional elements made his clothes popular with gay clubbers, fashion students, and working women…. In addition to producing groundbreaking and outrageous clothes for his highly theatrical fashion shows, presented by unconventional models (transvestites, old and fat women, tattooed and pierced youngsters)….In 1985 he created his first skirt for men. While it did not create a major impact, it had some effect, as fashionable young gay men were seen in the clubs of London and Paris wearing skirts.”

Andrew Bolton, the Associate Curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, is the gatekeeper of culture directly responsible for the exhibition at the Met. He is a charming young man with a shy nerdy look about him—the Hugh Grant of the academic fashion world. He’s a Brit, raised in a quiet village in East Anglia. Like Gaultier, he’d always been interested in clothes and fashion, and at the age of eleven he started dressing Punk.

After University he worked for ten years at the Victoria and Albert in London before coming to the Met. There, with his knowledge of London sub-cultures and his affiliations with Gaultier—a frequent visitor to the London gay club and fashion scene—and other gay designers, he was able to mount a smaller version of “Men in Skirts” at the V & A.

Is this the way it came about, this little subversion of the standards and mission of the great Metropolitan Museum of Art ? Andrew Bolton, the charming nerdy academic curator within whose breast beats a punky heart meets Gaultier the Paris/London gay enfant terrible with a message: Men in Skirts. Each camouflages and supports the other in their quietly androgynous aims, Gaultier with money and big reputation, and Bolton with academic credentials.

Bolton’s catalog for the exhibition is intelligent, and predictably uses history and anthropology to rationalize, legitimize, and justify the wearing of skirts by men. There are many examples in the exhibit of costumes worn by men in the past, or men in exotic cultures, which are skirt-like in appearance. After all if men have worn dresses in other places and at other times then it must be all right.

The problem with this line of reasoning is that there is no clothing configuration that is essentially male or female. Clothing forms evolve over epochs in various climates and cultures. They are based on a large number of interacting factors which include weather, health, safety, technology of agriculture, technology of cloth making, husbandry, technology of tailoring (needles, pins, scissors, etc.), religion, morals, and aesthetics.

In every culture each sex evolves its own conventional gender configurations enabling men and women to distinguish each other by length of garment, by color or pattern, or by accessories. There is no built-in ambiguity about gender in the traditional evolution of clothes no matter what the culture.

Gaultier and the androgynes want to undo this entire process of evolution and development of clothes in the service of unisex—the post-modern term for androgyny. And, although androgynous trends are not new, America has witnessed a rapid growth in the intensity of this trend in the past thirty years. This acceleration has been driven largely by the Women’s Lib and Gay Liberation movements, both of which, for different reasons, have a similar cultural goal—the disavowal of evidence of any difference between the sexes.

The radical feminists want to eliminate what they perceive to be evidence of men’s superiority in any sphere and many gay men take pleasure and comfort in images of gender confusion—Marlene Dietrich dressed in top hat and tails singing in her deep voice; or the gifted gay parodist Charles Busch playing a Joan Crawford-like character in one of his Hollywood-kitsch satires; or the many instances of gender-bending in Tony Kushner’s “Angels in America.”

As Bolton says in his catalog quoting Rebecca Arnold’s “Fashion, Desire and Anxiety”: “In the 20th century, the fragmentation of traditional lines of status and power has led to periods when solace has been sought through this denial of difference. The diversity of contemporary culture and the breakup of existing ideas of gender… and sexuality led to confusion surrounding definitions of identity…."

There is yet another central aspect to the exhibition which is associated with its androgynous and homosexual components, but which is important and distinct—its transgressivity.

One of the first things one encounters in the exhibition is a quotation from Deuteronomy in very large print: “A woman shall not wear anything that pertains to a man nor shall a man put on a woman's garment; for whoever does these things, is an abomination to the Lord your God."

This thunderous commandment looks out over man and woman manikins wearing the same miniskirt outfit by Rudi Gernreich as well as a platoon of skirted male manikins in various states of undress.

Bolton states in his catalog: “The transgression of gender has a social and even a political charge that few other forms of self-expression can match. Various men who have wished to characterize themselves as resistant, rebellious or simply contrarian have adopted skirted garments as a sign of their refusal to meet societal expectations.” He goes on to describe the various incarnations of London’s transgressive sub-cultures—Glam Rock, Punk, Queer—each with it’s own set of subversive, iconoclastic, and androgynous manifestations. The most famous of these, Mick Jagger and David Bowie, are by now elder statesmen or members of the peerage.

But here is what Bolton says about Punk Rock—his own choice of antinomianism during his adolescence: “The disruptive impact of men in skirts was actively sought by Punk Rockers…. Punk’s self- representation was abject, aiming to appall and disgust….Punk style reflected an apocalyptic androgynous tribalism. Make-up to provoke rage and indignation was worn by both boys and girls.”

Vivienne Westwood, an edgy London designer whose clothes Bolton sometimes wears, was responsible for formulating the quintessential punk outfit according to Bolton. This consisted of a pair of bondage trousers worn with a T-shirt with an obscene image or slogan. “Designed to be worn by both men and women, Westwood's bondage trousers epitomized the nihilism, narcissism and, most notably, gender confusion that motivated Punk fashion.”

Well, what, after all, is so bad about a guy wearing an unbifurcated garment? What Jewish doctor, deep in his heart of hearts, wouldn’t give up his season ticket to Yankee Stadium to look like Sean Connery when he wears his kilt?

But isn’t that the point? Men don’t mind wearing kilts because for two hundred years—since George IV and Queen Victoria gave it prestige and legitimacy—it has been associated with heroism, honor, pride, and manliness. It isn’t the clothes that make the man, but the man that makes the clothes.

It’s not the skirts in the exhibit that are the problem, it’s the underlying meaning of the skirts in the show and the show itself—its subversiveness—small-bore subversiveness. It’s the death of masculinity and tradition by ten-thousand cuts. It is the unrelenting drip, drip, drip of cultural androgyny that will wear away the shape of the stone until we have lost what was of value in our imperfect heterosexual life.

And don’t be surprised to see us eyeing that handsome kilt outfit in Ralph Lauren’s Madison Avenue window when it shows up one of these days.

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Comments

Personally I am waiting for pants to go out of style.

After all what are they? Merely an Asian horseman's costume.

Since we no longer have horses I see no reason why I could not wear my ancestral Highland garb, the garb of Auld Gaul every day. In the meantime I have to wait for Tartan Day, a wedding or a funeral....

It never wears out at the knees and is great for climbing braes and sword dances...

It is true after all what they say: REAL MEN WEAR KILTS all other just wear what Cortes and Attila told them to wear....

Posted by: Ricardo Munro at January 30, 2004 01:33 AM

Real men *do* wear kilts, and (I say this as a proud descendant of a whole horde of Scots) you don't have to have one drop of Scottish blood to be "entitled" to wear one. Kilts were worn in ancient Egypt and Sumeria, after all. And for wonderful, easy-care modern kilts, see this site: The Utilikilts Company. I have no affiliation with them -- I just love looking at men's legs in kilts. Verrrrry nice. ;-)

Posted by: Mary in LA at February 2, 2004 07:52 PM

[commercial break]
Horsefeathers’ whole outlook on life is based on a series of premises that create a social structure that provides him with security - men are men and dress as men, women are women etc. When changes are proposed that are incompatible with that social structure - eg sexual identity might not be that important - his worldview is threatened. Rather than accept the possibility that such changes may be innocuous or desirable he has to condemn them.

This is part of a longer response to this article on my site www.martinforeman.com.
[end of commercial break]

Posted by: Martin Foreman at March 21, 2004 12:19 PM

I have overcome a lot of preconcieved ideas about clothes traditionally thought to be just for women
mainly because of religeous objections which have
taught to me from my youth.
I just dont think God cares what I wear as long as I do wear something to cover all the good parts.Skirts and even blouses bring em on .
It's about time

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